The Geneva Watch Days has finally kicked off after a COVID-induced delay, and Bulgari did not fail to make a statement with its timepieces. The Italian luxury brand, along with seven others including MB&F, Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, is one of the founding partners of the show. And with four collection ranges including everything from high complications to high jewellery pieces and sports watches, Bulgari successfully turned the mini-event into a grand display of sheer luxury.
In all, nine new timepieces graced the event, plus a surprise appearance from one of Disney’s most recognizable characters. Bulgari has made sure to produce unique pieces that cater to every taste along the luxury spectrum, so whether you love complicated pieces or need a dazzling adornment for a black-tie event, this collection has the perfect accessory for you.
The Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon: For serious collectors
If you love timepieces more for what they are than how they look, then this is the one for you. The 41 mm Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon tracks the minutes on a retrograde scale running in an arc along the lower half of the dial, where two independent, retractable “butterfly” or diamond-shaped hands take turns in carrying out this task.
As they rotate on a disk, one hand remains retracted while the other turns on its axis to point to the current minute. When the first hand reaches the 55th minute on the display, the other hand begins to gradually make a quarter turn to take its position at the 00-minute mark to count the next 60 minutes.
Hours are clocked via a 24-hour jumping display that runs on a ceramic ball bearing in a window at 12 o’clock.
Bulgari says the Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon consumes less energy than a traditional minutes display and comes with a 60-hour power reserve and a central tourbillon escapement.
Price: $129,000
The Divina Mosiaca: For those who do not mind the attention
This bejewelled sub-collection draws inspiration from the fan-shaped motif that was inspired by the patterned mosaic floors of the Baths of Caracalla, an incredible Roman ruin of a public bath complex that dates all the way back to 216 A.D.
This 37mm starlet comes in three variations. The Divina Mosaica Minute Repeater is an all-diamond affair, with alternating sections of pavé set round diamonds and invisibly set tapered baguettes. The case side and the curved, fan-shaped lugs are also set with diamonds.
This version contains one of Bulgari’s seven world records for micro-watchmaking – the world’s thinnest striking movement, calibre BVL 362 – interpreted here with a gem-set lucky charm attached to the slide that activates the chime on demand. It is set with 689 diamonds totalling 11.6 carats in a 37 mm 18-karat white-gold case topped off with a cabochon sapphire crown.
The other two variations are the Divina Mosaica Pink Sapphire and the Green Tsavorite. These alternate diamond sections with gemstone sections, using light-to-dark graduated hues of either pink sapphires or tsavorites. The case, bezel and lugs are fully set, and the crown is topped with a matching tsavorite or pink sapphire cabochon. Both are fitted with alligator straps of matching colours.
These last two versions of the Divina Mosaica contain the time-only automatic Bulgari calibre BVL 191. They are set with a total of 282 diamonds totalling 2.16 carats, and either 261 tsavorites (11.6 carats) or 261 pink sapphires (12.7 carats).
Price: Divina Mosaica Minute Repeater – $368,000; Divina Mosaica Pink Sapphire – $162,000; Green Tsavorite – $174,000
The Octo Roma World Timer: A timeless classic
As its name suggests, the Octo Roma World Timer tells time around the world, only that it does it the Bulgari way.
It contains a new, integrated movement, the 261-component automatic calibre BVL257. A pair of rotating disks—one for the 24-time zone reference cities and the other for a 24-hour scale— allow instant reading of the time around the globe.
All functions are adjusted via the crown, beginning with positioning the city of the chosen time zone at 12 o’clock, and then by setting the time, including the 24-hour time, according to that location. From there, it’s possible to read the time in all time zones.
Bulgari switches up some of the cities that traditionally represent certain time zones – for example, the Caribbean is represented, not by Bermuda but by St. Barts, a destination that represents “the essence of luxury in the region.” Other cities were chosen because Bulgari has, or plans to open, hotels there.
The complex, 58-faceted case is 41 mm wide, in either satin-brushed and polished stainless steel or blackened steel with sandblasted surfaces.
Price: $8,350
The Diva’s Dream Jewellery Timepieces: Traditional pieces with a bit of glam
The Diva’s Dream timepieces changed their dial for the Geneva Watch Days. Single slices of blue lapis lazuli or green banded malachite form the backdrop for these more understated pieces, which have simple diamond markers and diamond bezels.
The fan-shaped motif features here again, adorning the bracelet where alternating rows are covered in diamonds. The bracelet and 33mm case are 18k rose gold and set with 433 diamonds totalling 2.9 carats. The movement is quartz.
Price: $49,800
The Retrograde Mickey Mouse Disney limited edition: an iconic timepiece with a lot of fun
Gérald Genta was one of the most renowned timepiece designers of the 20th century and made Mickey Mouse pieces long before Bulgari acquired it in 2000.
The Gérald Genta Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse Disney limited edition is a tribute to the Disney heritage, as well as to the brand’s history of making retrograde calibres. The famous mouse is housed in a 41 mm Arena case in polished stainless steel and appears to be dancing on the rhodium-plated sunray dial. His left hand indicates the minutes on a 210-degree retrograde scale. The hours appear jump-style in a window at 5 o’clock.
This padded rubber strap timepiece is a limited edition restricted to 150pieces.
Price: €16,500
Source: Robb Report